If there is one corner of Italy that never stops surprising us, it’s the Portofino Promontory. The coastline running between Camogli and Santa Margherita Ligure is jaw-dropping, the food is some of the best in the country, and the hotels range from true legends to hidden gems that most travelers walk right past. We have been sending clients here for years, and honestly, we never get tired of it. Here is our honest, firsthand take on where to sleep, where to sit down for a long lunch, and what to order when you get there.

Let’s start with the icon, because there is really no other way to begin. The Belmond Hotel Splendido has been perched on its hillside above Portofino since the 1950s, welcoming royalty, film stars, and extraordinarily lucky travelers, and it earns every bit of that reputation. The gardens are immaculate, the pool terrace is the kind of place you sink into and lose all track of time, and the views sweeping down over the harbor are simply unforgettable. The restaurant, La Terrazza, is worth a reservation even if you are not a guest. Order the trofie al pesto, because you are in Liguria and it would be almost rude not to, and make sure someone at the table tries the branzino. The hotel sits about a fifteen-minute walk above the village, which gives it a wonderfully removed feeling even in peak summer and especially a good passeggiata post-delicious meal.

If you want to be right in the thick of Portofino life, the Belmond Splendido Mare is a completely different experience. It sits right on the piazza, smaller and more intimate than its hillside sibling, with fishing boats and glossy yachts bobbing just outside your window. The on-site restaurant Da V Mare is a wonderful spot for a seafood lunch on the water. We tend to suggest the Splendido for clients who want a peaceful escape and the Mare for those who want full immersion. Both are spectacular; it really comes down to the kind of trip you are after. For something slightly more contemporary in feel, the Eight Hotel Portofino is a solid five-star option as well. They have a sister property in the little cove of Paraggi, though fair warning: garden views only, no sea views, and you will need a car to get anywhere.

A short drive along the coast brings you to Santa Margherita Ligure, which is actually the most practical base for exploring the whole promontory and has a wonderful energy of its own. Of the two five-star hotels here, the Grand Hotel Miramare is the one we know best. It sits right on the water along the main road toward Portofino, the restaurant is genuinely excellent, the bar has gorgeous sea views, and there is a spa, outdoor pool, and a beach club directly across the street. There is also a lovely garden path behind the property that most guests never find; do not be one of them. A word on the Imperiale Palace Hotel, the other five-star in town: it has the kind of old-world glamour that certain travelers love deeply. We book it selectively, but the corner Tigullio Suite, with frescoes on the walls and windows opening on two sides over the bay, is genuinely one of the most beautiful rooms on this coast. And then there is Camogli, which we will admit is our personal favorite on this whole stretch of coast. It is the town that surprises clients most. The stacked pastel buildings rising above the fishing harbor are something no photograph does justice to; you really do have to stand there. The Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi is the best place to stay: a privately owned four-star with a terrace, pool, beach club, and those extraordinary views of the colorful town from the upper terrace suites. For something more private, Villa Rosmarino sits above town in a garden setting with contemporary decor, a pool with coastline views, and a genuinely peaceful atmosphere. You will need a car, but for clients who want seclusion over harbor-front energy, it is a lovely choice.

One thing we always tell clients: do not spend your whole trip in Portofino. The promontory rewards those who explore, like taking the ferry from Portofino to the Abbey of San Fruttuoso, a medieval monastery tucked into a cove that is only reachable by boat or on foot. Have lunch at the little trattoria under the stone arches with the fishing nets hanging overhead and order whatever seafood they caught that morning- it is one of those meals that becomes a trip highlight without anyone planning for it. If you have another day and want a different pace entirely, head to Chiavari, a beautiful arcaded town worth wandering for a morning. Stop at Farinata Luchin, which has been making the same crispy chickpea flatbread since 1907, and browse the food market before it closes at 1:00pm. It sounds simple. It is absolutely delicious. It is the essence of la dolce vita.

Whether you are dreaming of sipping a Negroni on the Portofino piazza, watching the sun set over Camogli’s painted harbor, or sitting under stone arches in San Fruttuoso with a plate of fresh-caught fish in front of you, this stretch of Liguria is and will always be Italy’s little jewel, so if you’re ready to start planning contact us today at The Italian Concierge, where every detail of your luxury Italy journey is handled with care, from your first check-in to your last dinner by the sea.

Ciao!