Generally, Capri and Ischia seem very similar, and yet Capri has been under massive tourist expansion, whereas Ischia attracts more local tourists coming from Campania and Italy. Ischia is bigger than Capri and still has a lot of locally grown produce.

Let’s start with Capri:

Beware when asking for a “Caprese” in Capri, as it could be mozzarella (technically Fior di Latte di Agerola), tomato, and basil with olive oil—some may add oregano, but most locals think that basil and oregano should NEVER be together. This idea is also extended to garlic and onion.

The other Caprese is always accompanied by the word “Torta” to make sure you know the difference. There are many places where you can enjoy a Torta Caprese, but the real deal will only be in Capri. There are two legends about how it was invented: 1) made by a master chocolatier to please a princess who wanted to enjoy a Sacher cake while in Naples; 2) in the 1920s, a chef was asked to prepare a cake of almonds for a group of criminals and, being under pressure, he forgot to add flour to the cake batter and only realized this later when it was too late, so he served it as it was and everyone loved it.

Moving on to Spaghetti al Cartoccio—generally with fish, shrimp, clams, and cherry tomatoes stirred in a pan and then baked in a parchment paper shell. This delicious recipe has disappeared from most restaurant menus. Do not miss Ravioli Caprese, simple ricotta-filled pasta with a light tomato sauce and basil: “deliziosi.” Of course, a full list of dishes with fish is typical here, such as Spaghetti allo Scoglio or Risotto Pescatore (pasta or risotto with fish and seafood sauce), fried or grilled fish and seafood, or Alici Marinate: a simple dish with anchovies marinated in vinegar and then lovingly covered with olive oil, garlic, and hot peperoncino—simple but delicious with the special anchovies which are unique to this area.

Moving on to Ischia:

Believe it or not, the representative dish of Ischia (an island) is not fish but rabbit: the island was full of wild rabbits and they started to prepare this fantastic dish, “Coniglio all’Ischitana,” which is slow-cooked and braised with garlic and tomato or served as ragout with bucatini pasta. Of course, fish also has an important role in the local cuisine here: fried, grilled, baked, and with pasta. A typical dish is La Zingara, a sandwich—yes, a sandwich—also mentioned by Gambero Rosso. Try Migliaccio, a typical cake in this region but with a unique local twist: they substitute durum wheat with spaghetti! Croissants are called “Cornetto di Calise” and are quite unique. Savor pizza with “Scarola” (escarole), with capers and olives, or “Pasta e Fagioli with mussels” (pasta with beans and mussels)—a local adaptation of a classic dish from inland Campania by the fishermen of the island. Try “Minestra Maritata,” literally “married soup”—made with kale and pork sausage—or chicken baked under the sand (the “Fumarole” steam that comes naturally from underground is about 100 degrees Celsius), or Casatiello—traditional bread mixed with pork fat and stuffed with eggs, cheese, and anything you can think of…something to die for.

Not to mention the local wines: this will be a separate chapter…